Café Commentary: Japan

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日本?

We’ve always been told of Japanese culture and it’s artisanal approach to all things cuisine, among others. Tales of coffee exploits and the allure of conveniently priced flight tickets, sent us to the land of the rising sun for a sneak peak at Japan’s coffee culture. Before angry readers blow up our inbox and feeds — this is meant to be a very high-level take on Japan’s cafés and coffee, in and around a couple cities, so please don’t @ us with errors, omission and the lot.

Starbucks Kyoto: “Nani?!”

An unlikely pit stop, but social media said we had to do it. Tucked-away in a quaint, traditional neighborhood of Ninenzaka, the coffee giant almost goes unnoticed as the typical logo is elegantly etched in a wooden board, as well as a vintage 6×6 inch iron plate sign at the entrance. For those in the know, there’s much fan fair from tourists as it maintains the traditional Japanese structure and decor. Quite literally a converted house, orders are made in an orderly fashion at the entrance; patrons then proceed to the back to view a small zen rock garden, patiently awaiting an assorted milky beverage. Upstairs boasts western and traditional style tatami dining/lounging area. My hips and knees allowed for only a spectators view of the tatami mat – a pleasant surprise that didn’t require much effort. For anyone hoping to rack up extra Starbucks points – the loyalty card doesn’t work at this location.

Punk A Vapore | Steampunk

Recently, I’ve tried to describe steampunk and ended up sounding like a small child with an undeveloped vocabulary. A quick search describes it as follows:

A style of design and fashion that combines historical elements with anachronistic technological features inspired by science fiction.
“the essence of steampunk is homage to vintage fashion with a modern, sassy twist”

– Google Search

As we observed Chinese tourists in traditional Japanese garb, take photos of a life-sized Totoro, a lonely shop with a sandwich board caught our eye. Upon entering, the ambience is almost overwhelming. No seating on the main floor, so upstairs to the tufted leather lounge, with several Steampunk “literature” to keep you entertained, while you sip your water filled tin cup before your order arrives. If coffee isn’t your speed, they do offer some carefully curated teas; but be prepared to drop approximately $10 USD (a bit pricey for wet leaves IMO). As far as I recall, espressos were a blend and only and more effort went into the milk variety espresso based drinks. This is a one-of-a-kind shop (at the time of writing) that we’re grateful for having experienced. Life pro tip: if you’re not one of those superheros that can pump themselves with several espressos a day, have a decaf at Starbucks (two blocks over) then head over here and taste the blend yourself.

Elephant Factory Coffee

Another gem, if not the gem of Kyoto. As one would expect, you’ll find this café down an alley with steep narrow steps leading to the entrance (If you’ve crossed a stream you’ve likely gone too far). The ambience is that of a WWII bunker/speak easy. If you like old furniture, views of poured concrete walls and police interrogation lighting then you’ll find yourself at home. The barista or owner (I cannot confirm) is a blog unto himself. A tall slender gentleman that speaks few words and takes no nonsense (be sure to sit in the assigned seat upon entry). I’m convinced that the shop doubles as his abode. The hodgepodge of cassettes, CD’s and books had to be his personal collection. Your coffee snobbery will take a backseat as you must simply enjoy the single origins available. The menu states that beans arrive twice a week from roast master Fukui of Hokkaido.

Rhyming off industry buzz words about the taste profile wouldn’t be just. He scowls at his tool set as he juggles four pour-overs at once, as if he knows that despite hours of practice, focus and determination, every cup may meet expectation but fall short of perfection. With much anticipation, our cups arrived and they did not disappoint; approximately a half tablespoon of cream to be shared among two people and precisely three glossettes. I’m not sure I’ve ever paired shoes as perfectly as these were. Alas, a true diamond in the rough, it is and a Japan trip must-do. I’d understand if anyone stops reading at this point.

Chami | Journey of Discovery

Still wet behind the ears, we were fortunate to encounter this pinterest poster child on day two of a soft launch opening. this open concept cafe roasts on site in Nara and has several signature blends as well as a host of single origins. With costs per pound as high as they are in Japan, it was amazing to see such a wide offering. Obviously, not all are available for single cup orders but the sentiment is reassuring. Speaking with the Barista and resident roaster, they take much care in the process and journey. As per usual, not many seats available on the first floor, but “Takeaway OK”, join the others outside and shoot the obligatory photos of the Chami branded bench and building. Located on the wrong side of street, shops in the busy alley would have already snagged tourists on there way to shrines, deer and mochi. Aggressive marketing will be their lifeline. We’re rooting for you Chami, keep the journey going.

Weekenders Coffee | TOMINOKOJI

Parking lot coffee never tasted so good. Yet another Kyoto heavyweight contender – Weekenders Coffee has its work cut out for as it’s a vertex in a specialty coffee triangle (% Arabica and Elephant Factory Coffee). We arrived just before closing and lighting was at a premium, you can google for high res images or visit their website. Weekenders roast offsite and sell whole beans online. Their precarious location and robust offerings has garnered them much attention locally and on various media platforms. The Guji Ethiopian (Anasora washing station) pour over was almost herbal tea like, although, at about $7.00 USD and no more than 5 – 6oz, you’re not quite getting a bang for your buck. If you’re looking for a quick break between the hustle and bustle of the market, then veer off course to Weekenders Coffee; you may need to get creative when finding a seat.

Yanaka Coffee

Still wet behind the ears, we were fortunate to encounter this pinterest poster child on day two of a soft launch opening. this open concept cafe roasts on site in Nara and has several signature blends as well as a host of single origins. With costs per pound as high as they are in Japan, it was amazing to see such a wide offering. Obviously, not all are available for single cup orders but the sentiment is reassuring. Speaking with the Barista and resident roaster, they take much care in the process and journey. As per usual, not many seats available on the first floor, but “Takeaway OK”, join the others outside and shoot the obligatory photos of the Chami branded bench and building. Located on the wrong side of street, shops in the busy alley would have already snagged tourists on there way to shrines, deer and mochi. Aggressive marketing will be their lifeline. We’re rooting for you Chami, keep the journey going.

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